Posts Tagged ‘ Care & Maintenance ’

Aerating A Lawn

posted on September 4th, 2015 by


Aerating is the act of perforating the soil with small holes to reduce compacted soil. This will aeratorimprove air circulation as well as water and fertilizer intake that leads to a healthier lawn.

What causes the soil to become compacted? Usually a lawn that has heavy traffic on it, such as dogs and/or children playing, a riding lawn mower, etc. the ground can become very compacted. A thatch build up can also cause the soil to compact. If there is a thatch build up you need to remove it before aerating the lawn. Also the lawns of new homes or lawns that have been sodded can have compacted soil.

Your lawn needs to be moist when aerating. The day following a nice rain provides excellent soil conditions for aerating your lawn. Fall or spring is the best time to aerate since your soil is soft and moist then.

Aerating is done with either a spike aerator or a plug aerator. The spike aerator pokes small holes in your soil, helping to break up the compacted soil. The plug aerator is more effective since it makes the holes about ½ to ¾ of an inch wide and goes deeper into the ground extracting a core of soil. This will break the compacted soil more than a hole made by the spike.

If the plugs do not breakdown by themselves after a couple of rain showers, you can break the plugs down using the back of a rake or even running your lawn mower over your grass.

After aerating, continue to use and care for your lawn as normal.

What Are These Vines Growing In My Zoysia Grass:?

posted on June 23rd, 2015 by

runner white backgroundIf you have a Zoysia lawn this is what you want to see! These vines are called stolons. Please do not cut or pull them out! This is one of the ways this type of grass spreads and fills in.

The stolon, often called a “runner”, is growing from the main plant. About every inch on the runner there is a small cluster. These clusters will eventually take a roothold and start to produce another plant. When the stolons finally come into contact with other stolons they will fill in the lawn making the grass thicker and hand holding runnerfuller.

If the runners start to invade an area you do not want grass, such as, trying to grow over your sidewalk, driveway or in your flower bed, then you would need to trim or cut them. The cut stolon can even be replant in other areas you may want to add more grass too. Be sure the soil is loosened when replanting the runners and the little clusters are making contact with the soil. The runner will eventually take a roothold and start forming new plants.

Not Tending To This Could Destroy Your Lawn

posted on April 30th, 2015 by

man dethatchingHave you ever noticed the dead plant material like leaves and stems that builds up between the soil and the living grass? That is Thatch! Thatch is a natural process and is necessary to help protect the roots, however excessive thatch prevents moisture, oxygen and nutrients from penetrating the soil.

Allowing the thatch to build up can result in an unhealthy lawn.  Thatch also increases the chance of problems with pest, fungus and lawn diseases. If your lawn has less than ½ inch of thatch it is fine. If you have a layer of thatch ½ of an inch or more then its time to de-thatch.

To remove a build up of thatch there are a few approaches you can take. You can do the dreaded vigorously raking in two directions. Or, to make the job a little easier you can use a de-thatching machine. The easiest way to get rid of thatch is by using a water soluble thatch remover, such as our “Liquid thatch removerThatch Remover” product. Just attach the container to your garden hose and spray your lawn.

Using a rake or a de-thatching machine can be hard on the turf, so you only want to de-thatch when the grass is actively growing and has time to recover before the winter weather. Early spring, after the grass has greened up, is good time to de-thatch a lawn. Do not de-thatch your lawn when it is in a dormant state, this can damage your lawn.



posted on May 15th, 2014 by


Lawn_MowerFor those that have Amazoy zoysia grass you know that mowing is no longer a huge chore. Amazoy zoysia grass is a slow growing grass and requires infrequent mowing. However, proper mowing practices are necessary to maintain an Amazoy zoysia lawn that is the envy of any neighborhood

Whether you use a rotary or reel mower, the key step in proper mowing is to make sure your mower blade is sharp. If you use a dull blade this will just rip the grass and not cut it. Your mower blade should be sharpened about every 8 mows or once per year. If the grass is not properly cut it can lead to the tips turning yellow the day after mowing.

The recommend height for zoysia grass is around 2 inches. You should never remove more than 1/3 of the blade. What that means is if you maintain your zoysia lawn at 2 inches once the grass reaches 3 inches it is time to mow, you only want to remove 1 inch of the blade.

You can measure the mowing height by setting the mower on a flat surface, making sure all four wheels are at the same setting. Then measure the distance between the ground and blade.

It is advisable to change the mowing direction. If you’ve mowed in horizontal lines a few times, change it up and mow in a vertical pattern. Switching directions with each mow will help your lawn to avoid a build up of thatch and stay healthy and beautiful!

Getting Lawn Ready for Spring

posted on February 14th, 2014 by

With spring at our heels, it is time to start preparing our lawns for the summer months ahead.  Spring maintenance will help you to have a beautiful, healthy, green lawn this year. 

To get started it is best to de-thatch your lawn, once it has greened up.  It is helpful to remove dead leaves and thatch material resulting from the previous season’s growth to improve the passage of air, water, and nutrients through the turf.

The easiest method to de-thatch your lawn is by using a Liquid Thatch Remover.  This is a product we offer that is a natural liquid microbial treatment.  Four treatments during the growing season will keep your lawn thatch free. Simply attached the 32 oz hose end sprayer to your hose and spray. It’s that easy!

After de-thatching your lawn applying a pre-emergent will help rid your lawn of weed and crabgrass seeds before they have a chance to germinate. Our Gluten–8 Organic Herbicide is the ideal product for this. Gluten 8 is simple and easy to use it’s very effective in reducing new weeds from ever starting.  Do it early. Do it more than once.

This is also a great time to test the soil pH in your lawn. For the best results from your zoysia lawn we recommend the soil pH be between 6 and 7.  If the soil pH is below a 6 then you should apply some lime, if the pH is above a 7 you should apply sulfur.  Please follow the label instructions for the proper application.  At our website you will find a soil pH Meter and a Rapitest soil kit as well as our Café Lime if your lawn needs lime. Sulfur products are best purchased from your local Garden Center.

Aerating your lawn, which is great for your grass, is also best done in spring to help loosen the soil and improve air flow and root growth.  You can rent portable power aerating machines or most lawn care companies offer this service.

Zoysia in Summer Heat

posted on July 10th, 2013 by

                                           Zoysia in Summer Heat 

Looks like we may be in for another hot summer! With the temperatures reaching the 90’s and even into the 100’s it is hard to keep your grass green unless you have an Amazoy zoysia lawn. Zoysia grass loves the sunshine and heat, withstanding temperatures up to 120 degrees.  When your neighbor’s lawns are turning brown because of the heat, your zoysia will retain its lush green color. 

If you are lucky enough to have an Amazoy zoysia lawn, you know that it is very drought tolerant and stands up to the heat.  Please remember zoysia is a living thing and needs some watering in drought type conditions.  

What are drought type conditions?  This is when you have not had any rain for at least a week, your temperatures are above 90 degrees and your ground is dried out and depending on the type of soil you have even cracking.  The grass blades of the zoysia may also start to curl, this is called penciling.  These are signs that it is time to water your zoysia lawn.  Watering for about 10 to 15 minutes 2 to 3 times a week during drought conditions should be plenty for your zoysia lawn to stay healthy and green.  

During extremely warm temperatures, do not use fertilizers, insect or weed control products on your lawn.  These treatments in the extreme heat usually are not effective and can even burn your lawn.  It is best to apply theses products when your temperatures are in the low 80’s and never in the heat of the day.

Lawn and Garden Pests

posted on June 24th, 2013 by

                                              Lawn and Garden Pests

The grass is green, the trees are full, the flowers are blooming. Unfortunately, the lawn and garden pests are also making their appearance.

I don’t know which pests can annoy one the most, the insects or the small mammals in the lawn.

Those pesky little animals like moles, voles, armadillos, etc. that dig or burrow can cause some real damage to your lawn.  These varmints can be a real challenge to get rid of.  At one time the only way to get rid of these pests was to trap and relocate them.  There are now some products that can be used to help rid your lawn of those pests. You can visit our website at  for two natural products that we offer, Armadillo Repellent and Mole & Vole Repellent.  Both of these you simply attach to your hose and apply.  This pest will relocate themselves back to where they came from!

Amazoy zoysia grass is not a preferred habitat for many insects, because of its very dense growth pattern.  For the insects you do have to deal with, whether they are ants, fleas, ticks, chinch bugs, etc. a good pesticide should be applied.  With so many chemicals being applied to lawns these days, you may want to use an organic pesticide like our Essential-1 Organic Pesticide.

All of these products are safer for your children, pets and environment.  Just attach it to your hose and spray, the contents will mix with the water at the correct rate and you’ll be done in no time.

Different types of Zoysia Grass

posted on February 15th, 2013 by


Many people do not realize that there are numerous strains of zoysia grass, all are a little different.   Below are a few of the commonly used strains of zoysia to show you how they are different. Let’s start with Amazoy our name for Meyers, Z-52 the original zoysia grass.

Amazoy – Medium leaf blade, deep green color, very tight growth pattern, low maintenance, drought resistance, moderate shade tolerance and very cold tolerant but will not suffer winter damage from cold. Is usually planted as plugs, can be laid as sod.

Emerald – Fine leaf blade, dark green color, tight growth pattern, high maintenance, drought resistance, moderate shade tolerance and warm weather only, cold weather can damage it, is usually planted professionally as sod, can be planted as plugs.

Zenith – Medium leaf blade, deep green color, tight growth pattern, drought resistant, average maintenance, moderate shade tolerance, good cold tolerance, usually planted by seed (recommended to be done by professionals) can be planted by plugs.

Let’s compare, Amazoy has a medium leaf blade, grows very tight (crowds out weeds the best), giving it the feel of walking on a deep carpet, low maintenance. Only needs mowing a few times during the season; Amazoy is very drought resistant, therefore requires less watering. Amazoy will grow in partial shade and can withstand cold temperatures, up to 30 below.

Emerald has a fine leaf, tight growth pattern, (not as tight as Amazoy), requires high maintenance. It requires about 1 ½ inches of water a week and mowing about every 7 to 10 days, will grow in partial shade, but only grows well in warm weather.

Zenith has a medium blade, tight growth pattern, drought resistant and is fairly cold tolerant.  Zenith is usually planted from seed however you must have a bare seedbed, if planted within an existing lawn there is a high failure rate.  Can only be planted from spring to early summer and must be kept moist at least 15 to 25 days and then watered at least once a day for the next 8 to 10 weeks.  Seeding is recommended for professionals only.

Choosing a Grass

posted on February 1st, 2013 by


               What is the right grass for you? 

With so many different types of grasses available, how do you know what grass is right for you?  There are several different aspects you will need to consider.  First you need to decide what kind of grass you are going to plant, fescue, rye, Bermuda, St. Augustine, zoysia, etc.  Be sure to check on the different strains the grasses have, each one is a little different.   

It is best to look at the main characteristic such as, how is the grass planted; seed, plugs, sod, etc.  Consider what you want from your grass, such as color, maintenance, water requirements, growth pattern, blade size, dormancy, reproduction and durability as well as cost.

It is important to check all of these aspects of the grass. 

  • Color – Some are a light green, deep green, dark green, blue green, etc.
  • Maintenance – How much is required? How frequent does the lawn need to be mowed, watered, fertilized, weed control applied, etc.
  • Watering requirements – Is the grass drought resistant?  Does your area have water restrictions?  What is the average amount of water the grass requires?
  • Blade Size and texture – Do you want a thin blade, medium blade or wide blade? Do you want a grass that feels course, soft grass or a grass that feels like carpet?
  • Growth pattern –  Is the grass a spreading grass or does it need to be reseeded each year?  
  • Seasons – Do you want a grass that will stay green all summer, then you want a “warm” weather grass. Do you want a cold weather grass that can brown out in summer during extreme heat but stays green in the winter?
  • Durability – How much wear and tear can the grass tolerant? Will it hold up to children and pets?
  • Slopes – Do you want a grass with low maintenance and good erosion control or seed the area and hope the seeds take before washing away?

 There is a lot to consider and research, however remember your lawn is something you will want to enjoy for a long, long time. The right decision can make a huge difference!

Maintaining Your Zoysia Lawn for Fall

posted on August 21st, 2012 by

A good time to do a little maintenance on your Zoysia lawn is just prior to the start of the fall season. One issue to watch for is thatch build up. Zoysia’s tough stem tissue can encourage thatch, a layer of partially decomposed plant material that builds up on the soil. Removing it helps water and nutrients get to the surface of the soil. Use a hard rake to rip up the thatch, this can be a bit of a workout, or try our easy to apply organic liquid thatch remover.

Aerating is the process of poking holes in the soil to allow water, oxygen and nutrients to better penetrate to the roots of your lawn. This can be done up to once per season to keep your grass looking great. Make sure the ground is softened by watering the day before aerating. Use an aerator with hollow tines (most equipment rental stores will have them) and criss-cross your lawn putting at least 12 holes per square foot. Make sure not to aerate your lawn during dry, drought conditions when the soil is particularly hard.

Unlike cold weather grasses, Zoysia is best fertilized in the spring, not the fall. Zoysia starts to harden in preparation for the cold weather and fertilizing after August can hinder that natural process.